Lovely book that explains both the basics as the more advanced aspects of climbing training (both mentally and physically)。 A great book for every climber afficionado!
Lara Thompson,
More comprehensive than the Horst books and manages to go just enough into depth for most。 I’ve heard rumours they’re working on another that’s more in depth for serious athletes and trainers。
Tom,
A strong deep dive in to climbing and addressing techniques - plus makes me want to go climb in Norway!This book is a great addition to any climbers coffee table and will be well thumbed by all visiting climbers。 It covers a broad range of topics addressing the basics of technique, to mental approaches all the way to training plans。 From my training at home on my fingerboard I'm seeing benefits to paying more attention to the details following reading。 Alongside the more detailed technique addre A strong deep dive in to climbing and addressing techniques - plus makes me want to go climb in Norway!This book is a great addition to any climbers coffee table and will be well thumbed by all visiting climbers。 It covers a broad range of topics addressing the basics of technique, to mental approaches all the way to training plans。 From my training at home on my fingerboard I'm seeing benefits to paying more attention to the details following reading。 Alongside the more detailed technique addressing the book is dotted with a few great interviews with climbers such as Tom Randall and Eva López giving addition insights alongside Martin's and Stian's。 I've found it best read dropping in to chunks over coffee reading small sections at a time and then coming back later - rather than chapter 1 onwards, but it gives you a good insight in to a few great ideas and tips that I will certainly be trying post lockdown。 Alongside the text there is a great number of photographs to supplement the text you so you cn really see in detail the techniques in detail。 Also some great shots from around the world of climbers out and about good for building up your general psyche。 As a book the only weakness in one way is its size in that I wouldn't probably take it to the wall with me to train, but in its size you could easily snap a photo of a particular page if you needed it。 But I feel its best suited to live on your coffee table for evening reading or a quick browse over a coffee or a pint。 。。。more
Michael Cawley,
This is a really wonderful book。 Written by two Norwegian climbing coaches and translated very clearly into English。 It covers all the key areas of rock climbing technique, training, and mental aspects。 Lots of excellent photos, examples, and clarifications which seem to hit the essentials without any superfluous content。I haven't really been climbing during Covid, but I am fretting away and keen to improve my climbing when things start to return to normal。 I will be using this book to drive my This is a really wonderful book。 Written by two Norwegian climbing coaches and translated very clearly into English。 It covers all the key areas of rock climbing technique, training, and mental aspects。 Lots of excellent photos, examples, and clarifications which seem to hit the essentials without any superfluous content。I haven't really been climbing during Covid, but I am fretting away and keen to improve my climbing when things start to return to normal。 I will be using this book to drive my training, and I'm sure I'll be dipping in and out of it for years to come。 。。。more
Philippa,
This is fantastic! I’m pretty sure it would be impossible to read it and not become a better climber。 I was really impressed by how comprehensive and accessible this manual is, thoroughly covering the physical side of training, and also with sections on technique, mental training, and tactics。 There’s a massive amount of information covered, but it’s split into manageable sections and would be easy to quickly dip into if you just want a bit of structure or focus before starting a training sessio This is fantastic! I’m pretty sure it would be impossible to read it and not become a better climber。 I was really impressed by how comprehensive and accessible this manual is, thoroughly covering the physical side of training, and also with sections on technique, mental training, and tactics。 There’s a massive amount of information covered, but it’s split into manageable sections and would be easy to quickly dip into if you just want a bit of structure or focus before starting a training session。 It’s grounded in plenty of real life examples and interviews with top climbers, and it’s really helpful to see how people have tried the advice and found it to be helpful。 It was brilliant and inspiring to see equal gender representation in the many photos, and great to see a quick discussion of climbing during pregnancy – I think this is the first time I’ve ever seen any mention of this in a training guide!I found the mental training section really valuable。 It covers several different sections – motivation, confidence, fear of falling and dealing with failure, and gives practical advice on how to deal with anything you’re struggling with。 There is a huge amount of stuff to work through and implement in your own climbing。 The technique section is particularly accessible, and really well explained。 There’s plenty of clear photos to show exactly what’s being explained, and the guide does a really good job of catering for both beginner climbers and also covering more advanced techniques。 The photos are also good for helping to summon up some motivation on those days when you really don’t feel like training!The physical training includes plenty of exercises that can be done at home with minimal equipment – surprisingly useful this year! I manage to injure myself fairly regularly climbing and haven’t really known where to start with conditioning and injury prevention exercises, but the section on this is really clear and has given me several things to start trying that I can do at home。The only thing not covered is nutrition, although there are plenty of specific guides already available on that and it’s probably too big a topic to slot into this as well as everything else。 Overall, it’s an incredibly inspiring and practical guide, perfect for anyone who wants a comprehensive capture of all the different training elements that need to come together to climb harder。 。。。more
Dave Hume,
Possibly the best book yet on training for climbing, and that’s quite a crowded field。 Books on climbing technique have been around for a long time。 C。T Dent’s “Mountaineering” (1911), Guido Rey’s “Alpinisme Acrobatique” (1919) and Alan Blackshaw’s “Mountaineering” (1966) are examples of books that aimed to instruct and inform climbers of the time on technique and equipment, but climbing has moved on a long way in recent decades, and instructional books have trended towards more intensive and sy Possibly the best book yet on training for climbing, and that’s quite a crowded field。 Books on climbing technique have been around for a long time。 C。T Dent’s “Mountaineering” (1911), Guido Rey’s “Alpinisme Acrobatique” (1919) and Alan Blackshaw’s “Mountaineering” (1966) are examples of books that aimed to instruct and inform climbers of the time on technique and equipment, but climbing has moved on a long way in recent decades, and instructional books have trended towards more intensive and systematic approaches to becoming a better climber。 The authors, Martin Mobråten and Stian Christophersen, both climb and coach at very high standards of difficulty (8c+ and 8c for those who are in the know)。 Christophersen is also a physiotherapist and coaches the Norwegian climbing team。 The book covers Technical, Physical and Mental training, with three additional chapters on Tactics, General training and injury prevention, and finally, training plans。 It is richly comprehensive, and their experience in coaching shines through each section。 Interviews with leading climbers - entitled A Climber’s Story - expand on particular themes and give fascinating insights – who would have thought that you could write a PhD on using deadhangs for finger strength training? (p。114)。 The illustrations are excellent throughout and there is an even balance between indoor and outdoor settings。 The authors emphasise the primacy of technique and remind us that climbing is, or should be, fun。 The excellent foreword by Jo Nesbo, Norwegian thriller writer and recent climbing convert, underlines the fun and games strand, and connects this to systematic training as a way of enhancing your enjoyment and simply getting better at something you enjoy。 Pretty wise words – training is not exclusively about obsessive preparation by obsessive athletes for the climbing World Cup and ticking the highest grades。 Cherry-picking any one of the specialist topics in the book should help any climber get a bit better at what they do。 My favourite injunction from the Physical Training chapter is “Climb with the body you’ve got”。 If only the authors knew。 Some topics are rarely covered in other training books – for example skincare for crimping, climbing during pregnancy, injury risk for young climbers, but it is the main focuses on movement technique, doing training exercises with precision and managing the mental side of climbing that make this book a treat。 As befits its title of The Climbing Bible, it ends with Ten Commandments, and none of them are “Don’ts”。This is an excellent read, and a very good translation。 There’s stuff in here for climbers at any level。 Read, absorb, then just do it and have fun。 。。。more
Manselk,
This is possibly the most comprehensive and insightful book you will read on suffering and the motivation behind it。 It explores the characters and their lives in raw details, it leaves you with an appreciation for their contribution to winter mountaineering。 This is best summed up in the chapter on Nanga Parbat!
Sarah Laing,
This is a very substantial book on the technical, physical and mental tactics to become a better climber。 The book is broken down into 6 main chapters: Technique, Physical training, Mental training, Tactics, General Training and Injury Prevention, and Training plans。 Each chapter comprehensively breaks down the subject matter into manageable bite size chunks, no more than one or two pages long, and is lavishly complemented with many full page photographs to keep the psyche up and many smaller pi This is a very substantial book on the technical, physical and mental tactics to become a better climber。 The book is broken down into 6 main chapters: Technique, Physical training, Mental training, Tactics, General Training and Injury Prevention, and Training plans。 Each chapter comprehensively breaks down the subject matter into manageable bite size chunks, no more than one or two pages long, and is lavishly complemented with many full page photographs to keep the psyche up and many smaller pictures to display the techniques discussed in the text。The new climber will find an almost overwhelming amount of information with regards to training and tactics, whilst the seasoned climber will find plenty of tips and tricks to keep them at the top of their game。 There are also personal reflections from many top climbers throughout, which add insight into the minds of those pushing their limits regularly, and many opportunities to find inspiration。 The original book was written in Norwegian and published and 2018, and this English version was published in 2020, and the translation is excellent。 Overall an excellent book that should find it's way onto every dedicated climbers bookshelf。 。。。more